Destination – Desolation Wilderness


Desolation Wilderness, Creative Commons photo by Abby Swann

When I talked to people about leading beginners to go backpacking, one of the destinations that often came up was the Desolation Wilderness.  All the joking about the name aside, the pictures I saw so far all suggested that this is a “desolation” well worth visiting!

Desolation Wilderness is situated in the southwest corner of Lake Tahoe and contains places such as Mt Tallac, Dicks Peak, Lake Aloha, Lake of the Woods, etc.


Desolation Wilderness, Creative Commons photo by Jan Gosmann

From what I read, the heart of this place is Lake Aloha. On the map this is the largest body of water in this area.


Lake Aloha, Creative Commons photo by Abby Swann


Middle Velma Lake (DSC_9965), Creative Commons photo by Ilya Katsnelson


Echo Lake Paradise, Creative Commons photo by Christian Arballo

Logistics:

The scenery is quite excellent!  Because of that, this area could get heavily used and use of this area for backpacking purposes is managed with a quota system by the Eldorado National Forest district (from Friday before Memorial Day to 9/30).  70% of the quota is reservable through Recreation.gov, and the other 30% are first-come first-serve on the day of starting at 8AM.  The key information for both method is the destination zone (see below).

For in-person reservation, you also need to decide which trailhead to take.  Depends on which side of the wilderness the trailhead is, the in-person locations are different (links take you to creating a direction using Google Map).

West side entry (Buck Island, Look Lake, Van Vleck, Wrights Lake, Lyons Lake)

  1. Pacific Ranger Station (Tel: 530-647-5415)

East side entry (Ralston, Echo Lakes, Aloha Lakes, Glen Alpine, Cathedral, Mt Tallac, Bayview, Eagle Lake, Meeks Bay, General Creek)

  1. Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit Supervisor’s Office (Tel: 530-543-2600)
  2. Lake Tahoe Visitor Center (Tel: 530-543-2674)

The trailhead and zone system probably need some explanation.  There are a total of 15 trailheads with which you can access the Desolation Wilderness, divided into East and West side entries (marked as TH below).

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Map of Zones, pdf available here at Eldorado National Forest site

Apart from deciding which trailhead to take, you also need to decide on where to camp overnight.  These locations are designated as “zones”.  These are numbered below.  For example, popular locations such as Lake Aloha are surrounded by zone 27, 33, 38, 39, etc. and Velma Lakes will be 16 and 17.  These are the zone number you will need to reserve your backcountry permits.  Each zone has an overnight quota, and you can see that information here.

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Map of Zones in Desolation Wilderness Trip Planning Guide

The zone system is only in effect for the first night.  From second night onward within the same trip, there is no restriction.

Apart from the quota, there are also the usual restrictions for backpacking in the Sierras, such as no campfire (stove cooking only), bear canister, and maximum party size of 12.

Itineraries:

  1. Bayview – Velma Lakes (zone 16 & 17): I came across this itinerary here.  The backpacker started from Bayview trailhead, camped at Velma Lakes, and exited through Eagle Lake trailhead.
  2. Echo Lake – Lake Aloha (zone 33, 38, 39): This seems to be a very popular itinerary.  I came across this itinerary here and here.  From Echo Lake to Lake Aloha is a 6.8 mile (one way) hike with a 700 ft elevation gain. Echo to Aloha
  3. Glen Alpine – Lake Aloha: An excellent write-up with pictures here.

 

Useful Links:

  1. Eldorado National Forest information on Desolation Wilderness Permits
  2. Everytrail.com search results for Desolation Wilderness
  3. Tom Harrison map on Desolation Wilderness via Amazon

 

Destination – Saddlebag Lake/20 Lakes Basin

Total distance: ~ 8 miles (loop)
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Elevation changes: +/- 1300 feet (approx.)
Entry Trailhead: Saddlebag Lake
Exit Trailhead: Saddlebag Lake

One big challenge about backpacking in Yosemite is the permit system.  Either you put in the request months in advance but didn’t get what you want, or you want to go on an overnighter but the trailhead you want is booked solid.

That is why Saddleback Lake (also known as 20 Lakes Basin) is such a gem.  It is right outside of the Tioga entrance and part of the Hoover Wilderness, managed by Inyo National Forest.  It does not see as much traffic as other locations and therefore there is no quota on the trailhead.  All you need is to get to the Mono Lake Visitor Center for a free permit, and you are good to go.  Therefore it is much easier to come here on the spur of the moment.

And the scenery is quite good!


There are alpine lakes, meadows, snowy peaks…


The hike starts at the dam of the Saddleback Lake. There are three ways to start: (i) hike the more rugged but shorter west side, (ii) the more smooth but longer east side, or (iii) pay $10 to take the cross-lake ferry.


The lakes in the basin are linked together by a loop trail. Because of snowmelt, the trail is not often visible. There are also a few places where you have to cross the creek that could be dangerous depending on the water-flow.


We find that a good map for the area is not necessarily the Tom Harrison, but a topo map you could buy at the Visitor Center for $10.



Because of the scenery and the ease of planning, I would wholeheartedly recommend this trip. We in fact went there in June 2016, so stay tuned for the trip report!

 

Logistics:

  • Click here to generate direction to Mono Lake Visitor Center via Google Map.
  • Click here to generate direction to the dam of the Saddleback Lake

Topo created with Garmin Basecamp, note that the trail crosses Lundy Pass:
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Elevation Profile:
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Further Reading:

  1. Greg’s Hiking Adventure write-up, pictures and GPX
  2. USDA National Forest page for the Saddleback Trail

Destination – Backpackers Campgrounds in Yosemite

If you read your wilderness permit carefully, you will read that you can stay up to one night before and after your backpacking trip at “backpackers campground.”  Well where are they?  This article will focus on just two of them – Tuolumne Meadows and the Yosemite Valley.

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By Tuolumne River

 

Tuolumne Meadows Backpackers Campground

It is found in the Tuolumne Meadows campground (duh!) and apparently it is behind the Dana fire-pit, between the A and B loop.  See the map below:

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Notice that this map is north-south reverse.  Therefore if you are driving from the west side, this campground will be on your right.

Yosemite Valley Backpackers Campground

On the other hand, the backpackers campground in Yosemite valley is not as well marked.  You would not see it on the map, though if you do a search on Google for the “North Pines backpackers campground,” you might come across Park service document showing:

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Notice that the backpackers campground is north of North Pines across a bridge.  There is no parking access and therefore you have to park elsewhere after you are done unloading.

Last but not least, these campgrounds charge $5 per person per night.  Thus be ready to pay up.

Destination – June Lake Loop Campsites

Total distance: N/a  

June Lake Loop

Elevation changes: N/a
Entry Trailhead: N/a
Exit Trailhead: N/a

Right outside of Tioga Pass entrance is a string of lakes at June Lake Loop.  These beautiful lakes were (maybe still?) the favorite resorts among Hollywood stars.  I only had experience with two of the campgrounds: Oh Ridge and Silver Lake.

June Lake Detail

Coming from the north, we made a left turn at June Lake Loop south and followed the road for another 1 mile before making a right turn.  Once we made the right turn, we looked for a sign that says Oh Ridge campground or June Lake beach access.  It was a bit tricky to find it since we got there late at night!

Oh Ridge is one of the biggest campground in the loop and we stayed at the “Owl” loop.  Each site has its own picnic table and a grill.  Each loop (there are nine total with about 10 campsites each) has bathroom and drinkable water from a faucet.  Of the two times I stayed there, once it snowed (Memorial Day Weekend in May!), and the other time was very pleasant.

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Snow camping in May

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Patrick pondering the ribs we were about to eat next to the campsite grill

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Some guys getting water from the campsite.

Near the Oh Ridge campsite is June Lake.  Department of Fish and Game stock this lake periodically and the schedule can be found here.

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June Lake

Usually I take the north exit of June Lake Loop to go back onto US-395.  Reason?  You will pass by the biggest lake in the loop Grant Lake with Mono Craters as background.  Well worth the drive if you ask me.

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Grant Lake with Mono Craters in the background

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Looking back from north exit, June Lake Loop.

For more information and reservation, Oh Ridge can be found here and Silver Lake (smaller campsite that is quite attractive) can be found here.  Click here for directions to Oh Ridge and here to Silver Lake.

Destination – Panum Crater

Total distance: < 2 miles (loop)  

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Elevation changes: +/- 200 feet (approx.)
Entry Trailhead: Panum Crater
Exit Trailhead: Panum Crater

Of the many low hanging fruit hike in Eastern Sierra, Panum Crater has to be one of the good ones.  For a mere 200 feet climb that is short, you gain enough elevation to see Mono Lake and basin, and also the part of Sierra Nevada that is the eastern border of Yosemite National Park.

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To get there, drive on US-395 and take 120 East to Benton.  After 3 miles, you should see a dirt road on your left that may not be marked.  This dirt road is not too rough and easily accessible with sedan.  It should be pretty obvious where you can park as you follow along on the dirt road.  Below is a picture looking at the dirt road from Panum Crater:

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There are two hiking trails, one around the rim and the other to the top of the cone.  Due to volcanic activity in the recent 600-700 years ago, the trail is littered with obsidian.

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Once on top, from one direction you can see the Sierra Nevada (here a picture with Gary as a model):

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Or to the other direction, Mono Lake itself:

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The whole hike took less than 1 hour and I think the scenary was well worth the minimal effort you put in!

Topo map created with Garmin Basecamp.  Click here to generate directions to trailhead.

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Destination: Young Lakes

Total distance: 12.5 miles (loop)
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Elevation changes: +2669 ft / -2728 ft
Entry Trailhead: Young Lakes via Glen Aulin
Exit Trailhead: Young Lakes via Dog Lake

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Young Lakes, Creative Commons photo by 2tsohghost5

While I was researching backpacking trails this time around, this trip to Young Lakes caught my attention.  Right next to the Young Lakes is the Ragged Peak that rises about 2300 feet above the lake surface.  It also faces the East which should make for good sunrise shots.

Parking will be the Dog Lakes trailhead parking lot in the Tuolumne Meadows area.  There are two trailheads that can get you to the lakes and thus you can plan to do a loop.  These are the “Young Lakes via Glen Aulin” and “Young Lakes via Dog Lake” trailheads.  By looking at the profile, neither trailhead seems to be any easier and the return route would be one big climb; therefore which one you start with will come down to trailhead availability.

This being a lake, I would also imagine the mosquitoes to be quite bad in early to mid-summer.  Bug nets and sprays are definitely recommended.

Topographic map and profile generated in Garmin Basecamp using tracks recorded here.
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Younglakes_profile

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Young Lakes in Tuolome Meadows, Yosemite National Park, Creative Commons photo by Threat to Democracy

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Peaks reflected on dog lake, Creative Commons photo by Alaskan Dude

Further reading:

  1. Trip report at thebackcountry.org
  2. Entry at everytrail.com

Destination – Tenaya Lake – Clouds Rest – Yosemite Valley

Total distance: 15.3 miles (one way)
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Elevation changes: +3140 ft / -7552 ft
Entry Trailhead: Sunrise Lakes
Exit Trailhead: Happy Isles

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Clouds Rest, Creative Commons picture by G.H. Vandoorn

One of the many famous spots we want to travel to this summer is Clouds Rest.  By itself it is already a very worthy goal for a dayhike, but combining that in a backpacking trip from Tioga Road to Yosemite Valley is just plain awesome!

For our itinerary we are planning to depart from Tenaya Lake/Clouds Rest trailhead, summit Clouds Rest, and then turn in for the night at the John Muir Trail/Clouds Rest junction.  Alternatively, we can also attempt Clouds Rest the next day instead (ascending and descending takes 5 hours total.)  Next morning we will be heading down to Happy Isle through Little Yosemite Valley, either down Nevada Falls/Vernal Falls, or JMT.  Of course we are going to be tempted to hike up Half Dome… but will have to wait till we have more time!

Topo maps and trail profile created using Garmin basecamp with tracks downloaded and modified from here and here from everytrail.com.  Please note that the topo map is North-South reversed, roughly.

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TL-CR_profile

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Clouds Rest Foot Trail, Creative Commons picture by David

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Clouds Rest, Creative Commons picture by Sathish J

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Resting at Clouds Rest, Creative Commons picture by Sathish J

Further reading:

  1. Entry at Yosemitehikes.com
  2. Entry at Everytrail.com
  3. Running and Rambling: Clouds Rest Hike Report

Destination – North Dome/Yosemite Falls

Total distance (one way): ~12.17 miles

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Elevation change: +1852 ft, -6052 ft
Entry trailhead: Porcupine Creek
Exit trailhead: Yosemite Falls

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North Dome Yosemite NP, Creative Commons photo by Teddy Llovet

Happy to report that we just confirmed the reservation for this trail!  Last year while we were looking at possible backpacking locations, we came across North Dome but we thought that it would be an in-and-out sort of trip.  But this year upon looking at the map and also reading some more guidebooks, it dawned on me – why not hike down to the valley floor?

It turns out that there are two main routes to get to the valley floor from North Dome.  Either the Snow Creek trailhead (near Mirror Lake), or through Yosemite Point to Yosemite Falls (near Camp 4).  Since the Snow Creek trail is known to be really steep, we put in a reservation for Yosemite Falls instead.

Thus the itinerary would be:  (Day 1) Porcupine Creek – North Dome – camp near Lehamite Creek (Day 2) Lehamite Creek – Yosemite Point – Yosemite Falls – Valley.

One of the challenges will be water as most of the creeks shown on the topo map are seasonal.  Only Lehamite and Yosemite Creek seems to be reliable sources of water.  But our permit is for end of June 2013 so that might not be as big a problem had we attempt this towards late summer.

Topo map and profile generated using Garmin Basecamp with tracks modified from here and here on Everytrail.com.  Click here to generate Google map driving direction to trailhead.

ND-YF Topo

ND-YF Profile

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Porcupine Creek Trail Head, Creative Commons photo by V.H.S.

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Half Dome Yosemite Valley, Creative Commons photo by Dave Johnson

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Vertigo (a look down Yosemite Falls), Creative Commons photo by Alan Grinberg

Destination: Lyell Canyon, Vogelsang, Rafferty Creek Loop

Total distance (loop): 22.7 miles

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Elevation change: +/- 4000 ft
Entry trailhead: Lyell Canyon
Exit trailhead: Lyell Canyon

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Vogelsang Lake, Creative Common photo by Doug Letterman

I came across this particular itinerary from here on the everytrail.com website.  Typically hikers would start from Lyell Canyon and then onward to the Vogelsang High Sierra Camp (HSC) via the Rafferty creek trail.  However this hiker opt for the Lyell Canyon trail and then ascend to the Vogelsang through the Evelyn Lake trail.  One bonus is that it will avoid the supposedly very dusty Rafferty creek trail in exchange for a 1600 feet elevation gain in 3 miles along Ireland Creek and some nice view.

I have heard of how beautiful the Vogelsang HSC area is and I am hoping that this summer this may be one of the places we can organize a backpacking trip to!

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Looking Down Lyell Canyon

Looking down Lyell Canyon, Creative Commons photo by Roger Williams
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Fletcher Lake, Creative Commons photo by mcbridejc

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Dual Falls, Creative Commons photo by mcbridejc

Further reading:

  1. Entry at Tripadvisor.com
  2. Entry at Everytrail.com

Destination: Lands End Trail, San Francisco

Total distance: 1.4 miles (one way)   Landsend
Elevation changes: +684 ft / -515 ft
Entry Trailhead: Land’s End Trail Eagles Point (next to 870 El Camino Del Mar)
Exit Trailhead: Fort Miley (approximately 2426 El Camino Del Mar)

San Francisco being the metropolitan city is actually well endowed with beautiful nature.  One trail that I often went on because it was close to where I live in San Francisco is the Lands End Trail.  Since I live close to Eagles Point, it is by default my “entry” trailhead but you can hike this in reverse.  If you are going as a group, you can park a car at the end of the trail at Fort Miley, or at Ocean Beach if you are ending the hike with some beach volleyball or bonfire.

Lands End

Lands End, Creative Common photo by Kwong Yee Cheng

The hike itself is not difficult at all, the bump you see from the profile below is a series of stairs that will take you less than 5 minutes to go up.  There are sidetrips to a stone maze shown in the featured image, or the Mile Rock Beach.  Otherwise navigation is very straightforward.

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LE_Profile

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Mile Rock Beach

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Ocean Beach

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Ocean Beach Sunset

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Sutro Baths

Combining this short hike with a trip to Ocean Beach or Sutro Baths is a great way to spend a relaxed afternoon.  Bonfire or eating hobo pack while watching the sunset at Ocean Beach is a major plus as well!

 

Further reading:

  1. Entry at Bay Area Hiker